Hold on to your bloomers; it's Fashion Friday!

                      Today we will take a look at the article of clothing known as bloomers.

Bloomers are named for newspaper journalist and women's rights activist Amelia Jenks Bloomer.       Bloomer lived with her husband in Seneca Falls, New York. When her husband bought the local paper Amelia began to write articles for it. After the historic Women's Rights Convention in Seneca Falls in 1848, Bloomer began publishing her own newspaper the Lily, which was the first women's journal to be produced by a woman.   

Bloomer gave her name to this type of underwear but she did not invent them. Bloomers were actually designed by Elizabeth Miller, who was a friend of Amelia Bloomers. Miller was on a trip abroad and was uncomfortable traveling in her cumbersome and heavy attire. She designed a lighter outfit which consisted of a shorter skirt worn over a pair of pantalets that reached to the ankle. The idea for this fashion was taken from the style of pants worn by the Turks in Turkey; hence it was known as the "Turkish Dress", also sometimes known as the Rational Dress which started in France.

                                               
 One day Miller stopped by Bloomer's home for a visit, sporting her new wardrobe. Bloomer decided to make a similar outfit for herself and then wrote an article about it in the Lily. "Fit yourselves for a higher sphere, and cease groveling in the dirt. Let there be no stain of earth upon your soul or apparel."  Hundreds of Lily readers wrote in asking for the pattern for this new fashion. Men's journals of course mocked the new fashion, eventually giving rise to the term "Bloomers".

                                                                                          Amelia Jenks Bloomer


  Bloomers fell out of fashion for a while, but like most fashion trends, they made a comeback. The invention of the bicycle brought the use of bloomers and the Turkish Dress back into vogue. Even Queen Victoria wore them so she could go bicycling! Eventually, as society progressed and clothing became less restrictive for women, bloomers once again fell out of fashion. Just think about how far women's underclothing have come in 164 years. First women didn't wear underclothes as we think of them today. All the skirts and undergowns made actual panties unneccessary. (Just imagine wearing about 15 pounds of clothing all day and see how much activity you do.) Then the bloomers were adopted to allow for more freedom of movement. Here we are in 2014, and with some of the skimpy underwear available out there we might as well be wearing no underwear at all again.

Ghi-ga-u: Beloved Mother

"You know that women are always looked upon as nothing, but we are your mothers; you are our sons. Our cry is all for peace; let it continue. This peace must last forever. Let your women's sons be ours. Let our sons be yours." - Nancy Ward; speech given to the United States treaty commissioners; 1781

                                       A Swan's Wing: Symbol of the Beloved Mother

Nancy Ward was a very influential Cherokee woman who lived during the forming of the United States  Because of her, many lives, both white and red, were spared from death. She believed that the white men were on the Cherokee land to stay and the best way to live was to live peacefully side by side. She pushed for integration and adoption of some of the white man's ways, and helped negotiate treaties between the Cherokee and the White man. In a time when European men denied women a say in the world, her wise motherly voice rose above them and was heard.

"She must have possessed remarkable traits of character to have retained almost autocratic control over the fierce and untamable Cherokee, when she was known to sympathize with their enemies, the white settler."     - James Adair

Nanye'hi, or Nancy, was born into the Wolf Clan in 1738 to Tame Doe; sister to the great Cherokee chief Attakullakulla. Her father is unknown, possibly from the Deleware tribe, but the Cherokee society is matrilineal, so her father really isn't important.

About 1751 Nanye'hi married Tsu-la, or Kingfisher. Kingfisher was a member of the Deer Clan and a fierce warrior. The Cherokee and the Creek Indians were ancient enemies and had always fought for possession of what is now northern Georgia. Some time during the year 1755 the Cherokee and Creek were involved in the bloody Battle of Taliwa which happened at Ball Ground, Georiga. Kingfisher was mortally wounded. Nancy was there at the battle with her warrior husband. She was hiding in the bushes when she saw Kingfisher fall. She ran to him and moved him into a hidden area and took his place in battle. The Creeks were winning the fight; the Cherokee had fallen back. She rallied the remaining Cherokee and led them to defeat the Creeks, who were twice their fighting force.




Once news of Nancy's bravery and inspiring leadership was made known to the rest of her tribe, Nancy was given the honored title of War Woman and later received the title of Ghigau, or Beloved Mother. Ghigau were allowed to become members of the tribal war counsel. They also had the final say on the fate of prisoners. Nancy also became head of the Women's Counsel which could override the authority of the chiefs when they felt it necessary. One prisoner that Nancy saved from death was a local settler by the name of Lydia Bean. Lydia showed Nancy how to keep cows and make butter and cheese.

A few years after the death of Kingfisher and her elevation to Beloved Mother, Nancy married a white trader named Bryant Ward. Her marriage to Ward helped cement her good relations with the white man and she came to speak fluent English and to understand more of the white man's ways and thoughts. This would help her to save many white settlers from the raids that took place under her cousin Dragging Canoe. Several times she sent word to the settlers of the Watauga that Dragging Canoe was planning a raid, thus saving many lives on both sides.

Because of her numerous interventions on behalf of the white people against her own people, she gained the respect of many important men in the newly forming United States and is considered a traitor to the Cherokee by many of her tribe. Some of the most respected military leaders looked to and listened to her wisdom. A Colonel Christian even wrote about her to President Jefferson and Jefferson in turn wrote back about her. Even President Teddy Roosevelt remembered her in his book Winning of the West. On one attack by the white man's army, most of the Cherokee towns were destroyed but her town of Chota was spared out of respect for her and her family. During the final attacks on the Cherokee and their towns, Nancy and her family were among the prisoners but were treated with freedom while among the miltias and were allowed to choose for themselves to stay with the white settlers or return to their home. They decided to return and rebuild Chota.

Eventually most of the Cherokee lands were ceded to the United States and even Nancy's beloved home town of Chota was sold. She moved her family to a place by the Ocoee River in present day Polk County, TN, where she spent the rest of her days running an inn. In 1822, Nancy died and was burried beside her brother and her son Fivekiller on a hill near her inn. Her great-grandson wrote this of her passing, "A light rose from her body, fluttered around the room like a bird, left through an open door and disappeared toward Chota."

   "The white men are our brothers; the same house holds us, the same sky covers us all."
Nancy Ward, the Beloved Mother of the Cherokee left behind a wonderful legacy and insight for anyone willing to heed her words of wisdom. We are all of one mother and should all live peacefully side by side as siblings.

There are some scholars who believe that the Battle of Taliwa never took place. These scholars site the fact that the Creek Nation never had a town by the name of Taliwa but research I have found suggests this is a Cherokee word meaning town. They also site maps that were drawn up by explorers during this time period as having no Cherokee settlements that far into Georgia or having them marked as abandoned. What this probably means is that these abandoned locations were either hunting camps that were not being used or were summer or winter villages and no one was there because it was the wrong season to be staying in those villages.

Many questions are always raised when we look at the history of a people who had no written language until the early 1800s. Most scholars also tend to look at history through the eyes of a modern thinker and this is always detrimental to history and the people of the past.

Did Nancy Ward exist? Yes. She was a Cherokee representative at many treaty negotiations and many colonists spoke of her in their letters and journals. Did she fight in a battle against the Creek Nation? Possibly. How she earned the honor of Beloved Mother may remain shrouded in mystery, but earn it she did.

Nancy Ward
Glory, Passion and Principle - Melissa Lukeman Bohrer
Cherokee Women - Theda Perdue
Nancy Ward/Dragging Canoe - Pat Alderman

There are several other really good historical bios about Nancy Ward but be careful because some are fictional novels and some just did no research at all.


Did you know: The title and honor of Beloved Mother is still in use by today's Eastern Band of the Cherokee.

Did you know: There is a Beloved Man title. Jerry Wolfe was the first man to be named Beloved Man since the 1800's. He was given the title/honor in April of 2013.

For more information of the EBCI in general and or for news you can check out:
Cherokee Museum or
http://theonefeather.com/

The First First Lady

I finally managed to tear myself away from level 70 of Candy Crush Saga in order to write a new blog.

Today we'll take a look at Martha Dandridge Custis Washington; wife of the first President of the United States of America.

Portrait of Martha Washington painted in 1878 by artist Eliphalet F. Andrews that now hangs in the East Room of the                                                                                                        White House

Born on June 2, 1731, Martha was the oldest daughter of John and Frances Dandridge. Her family resided on Chestnut Grove Plantation located in New Kent Co. Virginia on the Pamunkey River. Her education was the same as most girls born during her time and mainly revolved around domestic and social skills. She could read and write and was very adept at managing a household.

When Martha was 18 she married a wealthy man by the name of Daniel Parke Custis. Daniel Custis's father was against the marriage at first; feeling the Dandridge family didn't have the wealth and status to join into his family. Martha herself arranged a meeting with Daniel's father and did much good to promote her marriage to Daniel and consent to marry was granted. Martha and Daniel finally married on May 15, 1750. Daniel was almost 22 years older than his new bride. Together Martha and Daniel had four children; two of which died before they reached the age of five.

On July 8, 1757 Daniel Parke Custis died despite the attendance of the best physicians money could buy; without leaving a will. This put the now 26 year old widow into hard circumstances. Martha became the head of the household which included the business and financial aspect. According to English common law, Martha received a third of her husband's estate for use during her lifetime and the rest went to the children when they reached adulthood. Martha handled her new responsibilities with confidence and success. At the age of 26 Martha now owned nearly 300 slaves and more than 17,500 acres of land in six different counties.

Not long after her first husband died, Martha began to think about remarrying. A certain young military officer by the name of George Washington had heard about Martha's new situation and traveled from Williamsburg to her plantation home to visit her and make himself known. Within months of meeting both were planning a future together. :On January 6, 1759, less than ten months after first meeting and less than two years since her husband's death, Martha and George were wed. Martha must have cared for and trusted Washington a great deal because she married him without a premarital contract and so George was able to use Martha's one-third of her deceased husband's monies, lands and slaves. George also became the legal guardian of Martha's fatherless children. In Aprril of 1759 Martha  moved to George's plantation Mount Vernon to begin the next chapter of her life.

One of Martha's surviving children had lived until the age of seventeen when she passed away from a severe epileptic seizure. Martha's last surviving child, a son they called Jacky, married at the age of eighteen and he and his wife produced four children. Eager to join the war and fight for his country, Jacky begged to be allowed to join the army. He ended up becoming a civilian aide de camp for Washington. Shortly after gaining the position he contracted "camp fever" and soon died. The Washingtons took on and raised as their own two of their grandchildren. They would even travel to New York City (the first Capital) and then to Philadelphia with George and Martha during Washington's presidency.

During the War for Independence, Martha became a patriotic symbol. She was not comfortable with such a public life and role but she was determined to be happy in whatever situation she found herself. She would often visit her husband during the winter months of the war when fighting was typically at a standstill. Patriots and dignitaries all around the country would come out to meet her. She began to take part in fund raising efforts in order to support Washington's troops and the war effort in general. Washington felt Martha's presence was so essential to the war effort that he asked Congress for reimbursement for her travel expenses. Martha's presence, along with a few of the other Commanding Generals' wives became important for the morale of the army, and would often times hold social activities that helped make the long winter months more bearable. She also became hostess to innumerable guests including; generals and their wives, foreign dignitaries, other political leaders, and even Indian Chiefs.

When the War for Independence was over and Washington assumed the role of First President, Martha likewise took on the role of First Lady. There was no example already in place that the two could follow. Martha was aware that she just as much as her husband, would be the one to set the example of how the First Lady should act and what duties she must perform. She once wrote to her niece that she felt "more like a state prisoner than anything else."

In March of 1797, after having turned down a third term as President, the Washingtons returned to their beloved Mount Vernon; Martha was then sixty-five years old. She reveled in the daily routine of her home life and took great joy in her grand and great grand children. She had hoped to have many peaceful years at Mount Vernon with her family, but this was not to be. Only two and a half years after leaving the Presidency, George Washington died suddenly on December 14, 1799, after contracting a throat infection. Martha was grief stricken and closed up the bedroom she had shared with George and moved to a room on a different floor. Just two and a half years after her second husband's death, Martha Dandridge Custis Washington passed away on May 22, 1801.

                                      Mount Vernon; Plantation home of President George Washington


While Martha Washington was never involved in the Nation's politics she still served a very important role as the first First Lady. She set a precedent for every First Lady to come as a gracious hostess and someone that could/should be looked to as a symbol of the Nation.

Here's a little anecdote: Martha never lived in the White House that would become the home of every future President and First Lady, but her first husband's home was called White House.



For more information on The first First Lady check out these resources:

http://marthawashington.us/

Website about all the First Ladies

Founding Mothers: The Women Who Raised Our Nation - Cokie Roberts
(Don't be put off by the fact that Cokie Roberts wrote this book. It is very well researched and well written.)

Martha Washington: An American Life - Patricia Brady